Next, I raise the door slightly, using shims. To reinstall the door, I set the top in position first, then move the bottom into place, until the door is vertical in the opening. Now it's time to remove the old hardware from the top of the door and replace it with these plates that will, in turn, attach to the new hangers already installed on the track.
POCKET GIRLFRIEND CAN YOU UNINSTALL INSTALL
I'll tack it in place, and then install the track on top of it.
In effect, it will lower the track just slightly on this end. This short strip of four inch wood should do the trick. So before I put that track up, I'm gonna put a shim or spacer over on this side. Now remember, there was a gap between the door and the jamb right down here? Well, part of that is being caused by this top of the frame up here, which is not level. This is extruded aluminum, very rigid, and a new carrier - has three wheels instead of two and these are ball bearings, so it's gonna give us a nice smooth ride here.Īh, now that's just about what I expected. Now here is the new track that we're putting up. These wheels are plastic, no bearings or anything here and of course, it would slip right in like this. As you can see, it's made of sheet metal and it can be distorted fairly easily, and this is the carrier.
Well, this is the old track that we took out. With the wall open, it's easy to remove the rest of the screw holding the track. It's easier to control, and makes the work go quickly.
Then I begin cutting, using smooth, even strokes. By twisting and pushing the saw, I can pierce the wallboard. And I'm gonna cut this out now using a drywall saw. It's large enough to allow me to get my tools in there, but no larger than it really has to be. Now this is the section that I'm going to cut out. The idea here is to avoid cutting into the wooden framework. I'll mark the top first, and then drop down enough to give myself clearance for a drill and draw the bottom line. An electronic stud sensor will help me locate the pocket door frame. But over here, they're concealed inside the wall. Now here in the door opening, I get up here, no problem and undo the screws. Now the first thing I'm gonna do on my pocket door makeover, is take out and replace this track up here. There are no studs in here, no conventional framing. You know, a pocket door is aptly named because the door actually does slide into a pocket in the wall. Next, I remove the top casing on the other side, along with a small piece of the doorframe. With the stops gone, I swing the door out at the bottom and lift it off the track. These come away in good shape and I should be able to reuse them later. Next, I use putty knives and pry bars to lift off the stops. I use a utility knife to cut through the paint and caulk at the base of the stop - a strip of wood that runs along the jamb. Step one is to take out the door and remove the existing hardware. The solution to some of these problems is to install a new track and sliding door hardware. Some missing hardware right here - a track that doesn't work that well and is kind of noisy and when the door is closed, there are some alignment problems. For one thing, they don't require room to swing, and when they're completely open, they're completely out of sight. It's actually a sliding door that goes up inside the wall, and these have some real advantages.